Nigel Slater’s spiced salmon lettuce wrap

The recipe

Peel 2 cloves of garlic and put them into the bowl of a food processor. Peel away and discard the outer leaves of a stalk of lemon grass, cut the tender stem into short lengths and add to the garlic. Peel a 30g piece of ginger and add to the bowl with 20g of coriander leaves and stalks.

Process the garlic, lemongrass, ginger and coriander leaves to a paste then add 150g of tomatoes and process briefly to a wet paste. Season lightly with 1 tbsp of fish sauce and 3 tbsps of groundnut oil.

Heat an overhead grill, then place a 450g piece of salmon on a foil-lined grill pan. Spread the paste over the surface of the salmon then place under the grill, a good 20cm from the grill, and leave it to cook, watching carefully, for about 15-20 minutes.

When the fish is done, remove from the heat. Break it into big, juicy flakes then divide between four curls of iceberg lettuce leaves. Add a couple of mint leaves and some watercress to each, fold the lettuce leaves over the fish and eat with your fingers.

The trick

Keep an eye on the fish as it grills as the spice paste burns easily. Take care not to overcook the fish – it should be only just opaque inside. The fish should be a middle piece from the fillet if your cut is from the thick end or from the thinner, tail end, then adjust the cooking time accordingly.

The twist

Instead of grilling the salmon, bake at 200C/gas mark 6 for 15 minutes or so, until the surface has lightly browned. Rather than using the lettuce wrap, serve in two large pieces, with green vegetables, or serve cold, as the filling for a wrap or bun with crisp salad leaves.

The chicken and the egg: Oyako don

This is a popular Japanese street food and a great comfort food. “Don” is a short version of donburi in Japanese, which is a rice bowl dish that comes with different toppings. The rest of the name is darkly humorous, as it means “mother and child” – referring to the two core ingredients: chicken and egg.

Serves 2
For the Japanese rice
130g Japanese rice
230ml water

For the chicken
250g of chicken thighs
½ medium onion
4 eggs, beaten
4 stalks coriander, leaves
picked

2 bowls of cooked rice
50ml mirin
3 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp sake (optional)
60ml dashi (Japanese stock, below)

For the kombu dashi
1 piece of kombu (dried kelp) – about 240×50mm
500ml water

1 First, prepare the rice. Wash the rice well in a sieve for no less than 2 minutes, but ideally for 4 minutes, constantly turning it over until the water turns clear. Drain the rice and transfer it to a pan, then cover it with the cup of water. Let it stand for at least 30 minutes, or overnight.

2 Then, make the dashi. To make the stock, wipe the kombu with a clean cloth (kombu shouldn’t be washed). In a deep pot, soak the kombu in the water for about 30 minutes.

3 Heat it up slowly. When the water boils, take out the kombu and remove the stock from the heat. Set aside 60ml to use for the chicken, and freeze the remainder for future use.

4 Now, cook the rice. Cover the rice pan it soaked in, keeping the rice in the same water and bring the rice to the boil. Reduce the heat and let it simmer for 8-9 minutes (or 4 minutes in a pressure cooker). Turn the heat off and then let it stand to cool for a further 10-15 minutes. You can freeze any leftover rice.

5 Slice the chicken into 2cm cubes and the onion thinly ( 5mm slices). Using a 18-20cm pot, pour in the sake, mirin, reserved dashi and soy sauce and bring to the boil. Add the onion and chicken and cook for another 3-4 minutes over a medium heat. Lightly beat the eggs and then pour ¬ of the mixture slowly in a circular motion over the top of the chicken as it cooks.

6 Cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute more before pouring in the rest of the eggs. Cook until the eggs are set to your taste, I prefer them to be slightly runny and not over-cooked. Put the rice in a bowl and put the cooked chicken on top.
Yuki Gomi, yukiskitchen.com

Season's eatings: carambola cake

I have a friend with a house in the sprawling hills behind Byron Bay. In her orchard she has a star fruit (otherwise known as a carambola) tree. The fruit hang off the limbs like Christmas decorations. The blossoms are a beautiful mauve colour, clustered together, appearing at the same time as fully developed fruit. Native to Malaysia and Indonesia, the star fruit tree grows in wet, humid climates with distinct dry seasons. The trees propagate well in southern coastal Queensland, the Northern Territory and northern NSW. Trees in the tropics produce fruit all year round, those trees grown towards the more southern parts of the growing region will have a drop in production during the earlier, cooler months, but with the arrival of spring they will start producing well again.

A five winged fruit – it is only when cut that the star shape is revealed. Star fruit make a beautiful addition to a fruit salad, especially during the festive season, but at this time of year I like it best as the base for an upside down cake. It makes such a decorative ‘top’ when the cake is flipped.

With thin, waxy skin the fruit has a crisp, refreshing flavour reminiscent of a pineapple, especially when cooked. There is some astringency associated with the tips of the wings, but to counter this you can slice a thin sliver off the tips of the wings, which shouldn’t affect the star shape too much when cut crosswise. These wings can bruise easily, so handle star fruit carefully. The fruit yellows as it ripens, and should be eaten when yellow and fragrant, but before the tips of the wings turn brown.

150g raw caster sugar
150g butter (soft)
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 free-range eggs
1 tbsp lemon rind finely grated
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp bi-carb soda
200g self raising flour
85g shredded coconut
3 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp caster sugar (in addition to the above)
1 large or 2 medium sized carambola, cut into 5mm thick ‘star shaped’ slices

Preheat the oven to 180C and grease and flour a round 21cm springform tin.
Whip the butter and sugar until white and fluffy, it should resemble thick cream. Add vanilla and eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. When combined add lemon rind and fold through.
In a large bowl place the flour, baking powder, coconut and stir to combine. Add one third of the flour mixture to the butter and egg mixture and fold through carefully. Add the rest of the flour mixture and lemon juice and fold until just combined.

In the base of your tin sprinkle the tablespoon of caster sugar and over this, arrange the carambola until there is little to no space left uncovered. Spoon the batter into your cake tin, spreading carefully and place in your preheated oven.

Bake the cake for 40 mins or until a skewer placed in the centre of the cake comes out clean. Leave until cool to the touch and then remove from tin to cool completely. An easy way to get the cake out, is the take off the sides of the tin (run a knife around the edge of the tin before you unlock the springform) place a plate on the top of the cake, and flip the cake over onto the plate. Do this quickly and with confidence. Then carefully remove the springform base. The carambola will be on the base of the cake in a pretty pattern, which is now your ‘top’.

Nigel Slater’s chickpea and nectarine couscous recipe

The recipe

Peel and dice 1 red onion and put it into a small bowl with 3 tbsps of red-wine vinegar. Set aside for 30 minutes for the onion to soften.

Put 500ml of vegetable stock on to boil. Put 250g of couscous into a bowl then, when the stock is boiling, pour it over the grain, cover and set aside.

Toast 50g of skinned whole almonds in a pan till golden. Tip them into a bowl, add a couple of drops of olive oil and a grinding of salt then toss them gently and set aside.

Halve, stone and dice 2 ripe nectarines or peaches. Toss them in a little lemon juice to stop them discolouring. Remove the leaves from a bunch of flat-leaved parsley and roughly chop half of them. Leave the remaining leaves whole unless they are very large. Remove and roughly chop the leaves from a couple of sprigs of mint and mix with the chopped parsley.

Put 4 tbsp of olive oil in a small mixing bowl and stir in 1 heaped tsp of ras el hanout and half a tsp of ground, hot or sweet, paprika.

Remove the cover from the couscous, then run a fork gently through it to separate the grains. Drain and rinse a 400g can of chickpeas and fold through the warm couscous. Fold in the diced nectarines, the chopped and whole herb leaves and the onion, drained of its vinegar. Season lightly with salt then add the toasted almonds and divide between two plates. Trickle the ras el hanout and paprika dressing over the couscous and serve. Enough for 2.
The trick

Ras el hanout, the North African spice mix contains different proportions of spices according to who mixes it. Generally made with the sweeter spices cumin, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and turmeric, there is also usually a little mild or hot chilli too. As the spices in ras el hanout are already toasted, you can fork it through the grain towards the end of cooking or, as I have done here, directly into the dressing. It is available from most major food stores.
The twist

Plums would be an interesting replacement for the nectarines, again making sure they are ripe. You could also introduce some meat in the form of roasted chicken breast. Or perhaps jagged lumps of feta cheese that you have marinated for an hour in olive oil, chopped basil and mint leaves and lemon juice.


Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk

Follow Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlater

Nigel Slater’s salmon with herb butter and bacon recipe

Fishing around: Nigel Slater’s salmon with herb butter and bacon recipe. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin for the Observer

The recipe

Slightly season 2 pieces of salmon fillet, each approximately 200g in weight, with salt. Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6.

In a mixing bowl or using a food processor, combine 2 tsps each of chopped chives and lemon thyme with 125g of butter. Season with black pepper.

Take 2 rashers of smoked bacon and place them close together, flat on the work surface. Place one of the pieces of salmon fillet on top of the bacon. Spread 1 heaped tbsp of the herb butter over the salmon then wrap the bacon rashers loosely around the fish, tucking them tightly underneath as you place the fish in a foil-lined baking dish. Repeat with the second piece of salmon, the herb butter and two more rashers of bacon. Spread any remaining butter on top of the bacon before you put it in the oven.

Place the fish in the preheated oven and roast for 20 minutes until the fish is firm but only just cooked. Serves 2.

The trick

Many of the major supermarkets stock lemon thyme. If it evades you, then use classic thyme leaves with 1 tsp of lemon juice. Not the same, but on the right track.

The twist

Swap the thyme and chives for tarragon and parsley. This is also a good time to use chervil. Salmon and chervil are a happy marriage. Use pancetta instead of the smoked bacon.

Tomato and cucumber raita

Yotam Ottolenghi’s tomato and cucumber raita: goes brilliantly with all sorts, from simple breads and rice to grilled meat. Photograph: Louise Hagger for the Guardian. Food styling: Emily Kydd

A really versatile dish: lovely as a dip, with some warm pitta, or spooned on top of spiced rice or plain grilled chicken. Serves six.

3 Lebanese cucumbers (or 1 large regular cucumber), quartered lengthways, seeds removed and cut into 1cm dice
¼ medium onion, peeled and cut into 5mm dice
Salt
250g Greek yoghurt
100g creme fraiche
10g mint leaves, finely shredded
1 tbsp lemon juice
1½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted and finely crushed
200g cherry tomatoes, cut into 1cm dice

For the green chilli paste

2 small preserved lemons, skin and flesh chopped
2 green chillies, deseeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
2½ tbsp olive oil

Mix the cucumber, onion and half a teaspoon of salt, put in a colander and leave to drain for 15 minutes. While the cucumber is steeping, put all the chilli paste ingredients in a mortar with a quarter-teaspoon of salt, and pound with a pestle until smooth.
Put the yoghurt and creme fraiche in a large bowl and whisk with the mint, lemon juice and cumin. Add the cucumber and onion mix, and the tomatoes, and stir gently. Spread over the base of a large, shallow bowl and spoon chilli paste on top. Swirl lightly on the surface and serve.

How to make chocolate, chilli and chestnut cake – recipe

 Photograph: Krause Johansen

Chilli and chocolate have become a well-loved combination. Thoroughly pureed chestnuts add a subtle sweet flavour and a grainy texture, similar to ground almonds.

(Serves 10)

4 medium eggs

140g caster sugar

250g dark chocolate

250g unsalted butter

1-2 teaspoons chilli powder, to taste

250g cooked chestnuts

275ml milk

2-3 drops almond essence

Preheat the oven to 170C/325F/gas mark 3. Grease and line a 23cm springform cake tin with baking parchment.

Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks with the caster sugar.

Roughly chop the chocolate and put it into a small saucepan with the butter. Gently melt the chocolate and butter together. Stir in the chilli powder and mix well to avoid any lumps. Leave to cool a little, then stir into the egg yolks and mix thoroughly.

Peel the chestnuts if they still have their outer skins on. Roughly chop and put them into a small saucepan with the milk. Bring to the boil, stir in the almond essence and leave to cool for a few minutes before transferring to a food processor. Process until smooth and add to the chocolate mixture, mixing well to prevent any pale streaks in the cake.

Beat the egg whites to soft peaks and gently fold them into the chocolate mixture. Spoon the mix into the prepared tin, smooth the top and bake for up to 45 minutes – it may still be a bit wobbly. Leave to cool before taking the cake out of the tin and slicing to serve.

• Extracted from the Vegetarian Year by Jane Hughes (Modern Books, £20). To order a copy for £16, go to bookshop.theguardian.com or call the Guardian Bookshop on 0330 333 6846. Free UK p&p over £10, online orders only. Phone orders min p&p of £1.99.