Game has a fusty image, which is odd when you consider how many of us are concerned about healthy eating. Unlike farmed meat, game roams freely and, because of its foraged diet, is naturally low in fat, rich in protein and full of flavour; it can also be great value. Compare that with packaged foods crammed with additives to prolong shelf life, improve appearance and, in the case of meat, pumped full of unknown quantities of antibiotics. Game is generally free of all that; it’s common sense to give it a go.
Venison steamed buns
A street food classic to have at home. Beware: they are very moreish. Allow two hours for proving. Makes 12.
600g venison steak, cut into thick strips
500g plain flour
60g sugar
½ tsp salt
1 tsp baking powder
7g fast action yeast
60ml whole milk
150ml water
20ml sesame oil
25ml brown rice vinegar
1 tsp each black and white sesame seeds, toasted
For the marinade
2 tbsp brown rice vinegar
2 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp dark brown sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the carrot pickle
2 carrots, shaved with a vegetable peeler
2 tbsp brown rice vinegar
A squeeze of lime juice
¼ tsp caster sugar
For the mayonnaise
150g mayonnaise
40g gochujang (Korean chili paste)
In a bowl, whisk the marinade ingredients, season, then add the meat and toss. In a second bowl, mix the pickle ingredients. Put both bowls in the fridge and leave to marinate. In a small bowl, mix the mayo and gochujang and set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, salt and baking powder. Put the yeast in a small bowl. Heat the milk and water until tepid, then pour over the yeast, stir and leave to froth slightly, then stir into the flour with the oil and vinegar.
Turn out the dough on to a work surface (don’t worry if it looks scraggy) and knead for seven to 10 minutes, until smooth and bouncy. Shape into a ball and put in a lightly oiled bowl. Loosely cover with a damp tea towel and leave in a warm place to prove for an hour, or until doubled in size.
Turn out the dough on to the work surface and knead for five minutes. Roll it into a fat sausage and cut into 12 evenly sized pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and flatten into a neat circle with the palm of your hand. Fold the circles into half-moons, and put a small, lightly oiled piece of baking paper between each fold. Lay the buns on an oven tray lined with more oiled baking paper, cover with a tea towel and leave to prove for an hour, until swollen.
Meanwhile, heat a little oil in a very hot frying pan and sear the venison in batches for two to three minutes, until browned all over but pink in the middle. Toss the meat in the toasted sesame seeds, cover in foil and leave to rest while you steam the buns.
Tear away the exposed baking paper around the proved buns (ie, so the bases remain lined) and lower them carefully into a metal or bamboo steamer (do so in batches, if need be). Cover and steam for 10 minutes, until the buns are puffed and glossy.
Remove the paper from the bases and folds of the cooked buns, stuff with the venison, carrot pickle and mayonnaise, and tuck in.
Pigeon, lentils, mushrooms and apple
Allow two pigeon breasts per person (or one partridge or pheasant breast, if you’d rather). Serves four to six.
45g dried porcini, soaked, or fresh, sliced
60g butter
1 small onion, peeled and finely diced
1 small carrot, peeled and finely diced
2 tbsp thyme leaves, plus extra to serve
1 large garlic clove, peeled and sliced
300g puy lentils
1 litre chicken stock
1 bay leaf
8-12 pigeon breasts
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp red-wine vinegar, plus ¼ tsp extra for the apples
2 apples, very finely sliced
30g hazelnuts, toasted and finely sliced
1 tbsp olive oil
Soak the dried porcini, if using, in boiling water for 10 minutes, then drain. Heat two-thirds of the butter in a deep saucepan and saute the onion, carrot and half the thyme for 10 minutes, until just softened. Add the garlic, fry for a few minutes, then stir in the lentils, until coated.
Pour in the stock, add the bay leaf and bring to a boil. Turn down to a simmer and leave to cook for 25-30 minutes, until almost all the liquid is absorbed and the lentils are tender.
Meanwhile, heat a wide frying pan until very hot, add half the remaining butter and fry the mushrooms until golden and stir into the lentils.
Season the breasts. Add the rest of the butter to the same pan and, once sizzling, sear the breasts for two to three minutes on each side, until golden on the outside and pink in the middle, basting as they fry. Transfer to a plate, cover with foil and leave to rest for 10-15 minutes.
Meanwhile, add a tablespoon of vinegar to the pan and stir, scraping up any caramelised bits, then set aside. Combine the apples, nuts, remaining thyme and vinegar, and the oil in a bowl, and season to taste.
Slice the breasts (add any juices to the reduced sauce). Spoon the lentils on to plates, top with pigeon, scatter with a little thyme, spoon on the pan juices and serve with the salad.
And for the rest of the week…
The bun dough freezes well, so make double and keep some for another occasion (you can also use it for bite-sized buns for fun party food). The venison marinade works well on beef, too – try marinating a whole joint and pair with noodles and an Asian salad. The apple salad is also delicious with pork chops or roast pork – just add potatoes, preferably dauphinoise.
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